If your well pump is not working, start with pressure and power before you price a full replacement. A well pump that stops working follows one of a handful of failure patterns, and in a large share of cases, the fix is a $25–$60 part you can replace in an afternoon, not a $1,500 pump. This well pump troubleshooting guide walks the same diagnostic tree a well technician uses, in order of probability and cost, so you replace the part that’s actually broken.
Before anything else: check your breaker panel. A tripped 240V double-pole breaker labeled “well” or “pump” is the single most common cause of sudden no-water calls. Reset it once. If it trips again, stop! repeated tripping means an electrical fault, and that’s a pro visit, not a reset loop.
Step 1: Read your pressure gauge
Find the pressure gauge next to your pressure tank. It tells you which branch of the tree you’re in:
| Gauge reads | Meaning | Go to |
|---|---|---|
| 0 PSI, pump silent | Pump isn’t receiving or responding to power | Step 2 — power & switch |
| Below cut-in (e.g. under 30/40 PSI), pump silent | Pressure switch not closing | Step 2 — switch |
| Pressure normal but no water at taps | Blockage after the tank (filter, softener, valve) | Step 4 |
| Needle bouncing rapidly, pump clicking on/off | Short cycling — tank or switch | Step 3 |
| Pump runs nonstop, pressure never reaches cut-out | Leak, dry well, or worn pump | Step 5 |
Step 2: The pressure switch – the usual suspect
For most well pump not working calls, the pressure switch is the gray box (usually a Square D Pumptrol) on a small pipe near the tank. It fails more often than every other component combined: burned contacts, a sediment-clogged sensing nipple, or a seized diaphragm.
Quick tests (breaker ON, hands off wiring): tap the switch housing lightly with a screwdriver handle, if the pump kicks on, the contacts are pitted and the switch is on borrowed time. Listen for a hum with no pumping. Look for burn marks or spraying water under the cover – with the power off – both mean replacement.
The fix: a new switch costs $25–$60. Kill the breaker, drain pressure, photograph the wiring, swap the switch and the sensing nipple (it’s usually half-clogged with sediment too), match your cut-in/cut-out rating (30/50 or 40/60), and re-pressurize.
Step 3: Short cycling, it’s almost never the pump
For replacement planning, use the pressure tank sizing calculator to estimate tank drawdown needs.
If the pump snaps on and off every few seconds while water runs, your pressure tank has almost certainly lost its air charge (a “waterlogged” tank). Confirm it: kill the pump breaker, drain the system from a low faucet, and press the Schrader valve on top of the tank. If water comes out of the air valve, the bladder is ruptured, the tank is done. If air comes out, check the pre-charge with a tire gauge: it should read 2 PSI below your cut-in pressure (e.g., 38 PSI for a 40/60 switch). Recharge with a compressor if low.
A ruptured tank means replacement, $200–$600 for quality models depending on size, and arguably the most worthwhile DIY job in the whole system, because short cycling destroys pumps. For broader system basics, see our well pumps and pressure systems guide.
Step 4: Pressure is fine, but no water flows
If the gauge shows normal pressure, the well side is healthy and the blockage is downstream. If the symptom is color, odor, stains, or taste rather than flow, use our well water problems guide instead. Check in order: a sediment filter overdue for a cartridge change (the #1 culprit), a softener stuck in bypass or regeneration, a partially closed valve after recent work, and in winter, a frozen line section.
Step 5: Pump runs constantly
A pump that never reaches cut-out pressure is either pushing water out of a leak, pulling from a well that’s temporarily dry, or genuinely worn out. Walk the line from tank to wellhead looking for wet ground. Listen at the wellhead: sputtering or air spitting at taps suggests low water level common in drought or after heavy irrigation; give the well several hours of rest and retest. If the well has water and there’s no leak, a submersible that can no longer build pressure after 10–15 years of service is at end of life.
Well pump repair costs: repair or replace?
| Component | Part cost | DIY? | Pro cost (installed) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pressure switch | $25–$60 | Yes, afternoon job | $150–$350 |
| Pressure tank | $200–$600 | Yes, with plumbing basics | $600–$1,500 |
| Jet pump (above ground) | $200–$600 | Experienced DIY | $500–$1,500 |
| Submersible pump | $300–$1,200 | Shallow wells only, with help | $1,000–$4,000+ depending on depth |
When to stop and call a pro
Before you call a licensed well contractor, you can also use the free well and septic tools to narrow the likely failure. Call a licensed well contractor when: the breaker trips repeatedly (electrical fault), the pump is submersible in a well deeper than ~100 feet (pulling it requires equipment and experience), you find damaged wiring, or the well itself may be failing (chronic sputtering, sediment surges). Everything upstream of those lines – switch, tank, filters, gauges – is legitimate homeowner territory.
FAQ
How do I know if it’s the well pump or the pressure switch?
Tap the switch housing with the power on. If the pump starts, it’s the switch. If the switch clicks audibly but the pump stays silent, suspect the pump, its capacitor/control box, or the wiring run.
How long do well pumps last?
Submersible pumps typically run 10–15 years; jet pumps 8–12. Chronic short cycling from a bad tank can cut those numbers in half — which is why a $400 tank is cheap insurance.
Why did my well pump stop after a power outage?
Check the breaker first, then look for a pressure switch with a low-pressure cutoff lever (a metal lever on the side): if system pressure fell below ~20 PSI during the outage, it locks out and must be held manually until pressure rebuilds.
Can I replace a well pressure switch myself?
Yes! it’s the most common DIY repair on a well system. Kill the breaker, verify power is off, relieve pressure, and match the replacement’s PSI rating. If you’re not comfortable confirming power is off with a tester, hire it out.